This journey took place in 2014, capturing a specific moment in Myanmar’s rapidly evolving landscape.
My first visit to Myanmar was in 2012, barely six months after the dawn of its democratization. While many regulations and a sense of turmoil lingered across various sectors, change was palpable. Yangon International Airport, for instance, was already buzzing with the news that six foreign airlines were set to launch new routes within the half-year. It felt like Southeast Asia’s “last frontier” was finally cracking open, brimming with anticipation. Two years had passed since then, and I returned, eager to witness firsthand how Myanmar’s aviation scene and tourism industry had truly transformed.
Peering out the aircraft window as we landed on the tarmac at Yangon International, I was immediately struck by the view of the apron and taxiways. It was a world away from what I remembered. Parked were medium-sized jets from major Asian carriers and, even more surprisingly, brand-new aircraft sporting unfamiliar logos – Myanmar’s domestic airlines. It was a stark contrast to just two years prior, when the same apron hosted a few dated Myanmar Airways International (MAI) planes and a handful of small domestic aircraft that looked questionably operational, seemingly idling the hours away. The scene before me was undeniably different.
Slightly taken aback by this sudden transformation, I proceeded to immigration in the arrival hall and noticed another significant shift: the near absence of the underlying tension I’d felt before. Officials even seemed to be making an effort to greet visitors with smiles. Naturally, the entire process flowed smoothly and pleasantly. The single, notorious currency exchange counter in the arrival lobby – once advised to be avoided due to its acceptance of only US dollars and opaque, unpublished rates – was now just one among five or more. Each counter displayed exchange rates on monitors, accepting not only US dollars but also Euros, Singapore dollars, and even Japanese Yen. It made sense; direct flights now connected Yangon to Tokyo’s Narita and even Ibaraki Airport (as of 2014). Travelers arriving from Japan and elsewhere clearly wouldn’t settle for the limited facilities and services of the past. Perhaps this was the virtuous cycle of development in action: demand driving supply, and improved supply attracting more demand. Frankly, the international terminal at Yangon International now felt significantly more comfortable than many overcrowded mega-hubs in Southeast Asia, radiating an impressive, welcoming, and forward-looking energy.
Walking through the vibrant streets of Yangon, I noticed fewer men wearing the traditional longyi skirt than before. Had trousers and slacks become the trend? Another observation was the increased number of Yangon residents not wearing sandals. I recalled how, two years earlier, I was sometimes the only one in shoes in certain areas, attracting curious glances from children who would stare at my dust-covered trekking boots. The emergence of Japanese restaurants, though still sparse, also signaled a significant change in the city. The influx of foreign capital showed no signs of slowing down.
However, progress in urban road maintenance and traffic management lagged significantly. The development of tourism resources, designated by the government as a key future industry, remained largely untouched. Major historical sites like temples and ruins awaited serious upgrades, with domestic tourists still comprising the main visitor base. While reliable, safe “tour packages” meeting international standards seemed a distant prospect in Yangon, the narrow, bumpy roads were already being navigated at high speed by oversized coaches packed with eager tour groups from China, South Korea, and Western Europe – a real-time spectacle of a nation in flux.
I decided to venture beyond Yangon via a domestic flight. Two years ago, this would have been a daunting prospect due to unreliable schedules and the difficulty of purchasing tickets. Many regions were off-limits to foreigners altogether, requiring considerable mental preparation for any domestic travel outside Yangon. This time, however, booking a flight with AIR KBZ through my hotel’s tour desk was remarkably easy. Affiliated with KBZ Bank, one of Myanmar’s major financial institutions, AIR KBZ was one of the newest domestic carriers. Though operating a modest fleet of six ATR-72s, it distinguished itself from established domestic airlines like Air Mandalay, Bagan Air, and Yangon Airways by reportedly offering punctuality and superior customer service despite its lower fares. It felt like flying on the cutting edge of Myanmar’s newly opened skies.
My flight was an early morning service from Yangon to Nyaung-U (the gateway to Bagan). This route is popular among independent travelers, mainly Westerners, and despite the pre-dawn departure from Yangon, the flight was nearly full. A fare of roughly $120 USD for a flight just over an hour isn’t exactly cheap. That this was considered “low cost” spoke volumes about how exorbitantly priced other domestic carriers must have been previously. I had low expectations for the in-flight service, but surprisingly, a proper breakfast was served, and the crew remained cheerful throughout. The morning sun streaming through the window felt refreshing, a world apart from the dimly lit, tense atmosphere of domestic flights in the past.
About 80% of the passengers appeared to be relatively affluent Westerners. Their travel bible, the Myanmar edition of Lonely Planet, had previously advised against using government-affiliated travel agencies, shops, and services, as the money ultimately funneled back to the military regime. The current influx of Western tourists visiting Myanmar seemed directly linked to the country’s democratization, freeing them from such ethical constraints.
The exceptionally pleasant flight headed north over the Burmese landscape, landing at Nyaung-U Airport under the morning glow. The terminal was reasonably sized, but passenger facilities were quite limited. Apparently, much of the airport served as a hub for domestic cargo and military logistics. Checked baggage unloaded from our plane wasn’t put on a truck or carousel; instead, airport staff carried each bag individually to the arrival hall, handing it directly to its owner with a smile. You could say it’s because they lack conveyor belts, but the personal touch of this manual process was undeniably charming – perhaps the ultimate form of customer service, in its own way.
Nyaung-U Airport serves as the gateway to the vast temple plains of Bagan. The departure and arrival areas shared a single space on the same floor, featuring tourist-oriented counters selling postcards and stamps. Here, all foreign visitors are required to purchase a tourist pass for the wider Bagan Archaeological Zone. This pass grants entry to temples and ruins within its validity period, although, in reality, it was rarely checked at individual sites. Perhaps it functions more like a mandatory donation? Notably, Myanmar citizens are exempt. This practice of charging entry fees only to foreigners is common at temples throughout Myanmar. While there might be historical or cultural reasons for this, judged against international tourism standards, it seems unlikely to persist long-term.
The next morning, I flew from Nyaung-U to Mandalay, Myanmar’s second city. The flight was essentially a continuation of the previous day’s journey; AIR KBZ operated this route circularly: Yangon → Nyaung-U → Mandalay → Yangon. It was a clear example of efficiently serving the most in-demand routes for foreign travelers in a newly liberalized air market.
Upon arrival at Mandalay Airport, I found a considerably large and relatively modern terminal, yet it showed signs of heavy wear and tear and felt strikingly deserted. The imbalance between its capacity and actual use was stark. A shared taxi ride to the city center, taking about an hour, cost $12 USD per person – an astronomical price relative to local living costs. Why was the airport so far out? The old airport, closer to the city center, was closed in 1999 due to environmental and noise concerns, coinciding with the opening of this new facility roughly 40 kilometers away. Officially, the massive airport project was intended to boost Mandalay’s tourism development. Whether it was a grand, far-sighted plan or a miscalculation remains unclear. The highway connecting the city and airport was also disproportionately grand and well-maintained. Interestingly, in 2013, a Japanese consortium won the preferential negotiation rights for the airport’s maintenance and management over the next 30 years. Japan’s expertise in airport operations might play a long-term role in Myanmar’s tourism development.
Mandalay, Myanmar’s ancient capital, is a fascinating city. It’s home to ethnic groups with cultures distinct from Yangon’s, and its proximity to the Chinese border is evident in the prevalence of Chinese characters and a perceived cultural diversity. However, China’s influence isn’t merely geographical. While the world focused its attention on establishing a presence in Yangon following democratization, China, leveraging its geographic advantage, had apparently been strategically investing in Mandalay’s economy for decades. Reports suggest China aimed to solidify its economic ties and presence, seeking dominant influence in the newly opened international market. Yet, whispers of a darker side persist: stories of bribery rampant at the border for entry and goods transport, and the trade of fake Myanmar IDs. When I casually remarked to a staff member at the state-run tourist information center in Mandalay, “There’s a strong Chinese influence here, isn’t there?” he responded with a silent, resigned expression that seemed to say, “It can’t be helped.” It hinted at delicate political issues intertwined with significant economic impact, a situation seemingly beyond local control for now.
Despite this, Mandalay’s streets and people are vibrant, yet the city retains a somewhat serene, old-capital charm, making it an appealing place. The food culture is exceptionally rich, and the people are generally calm and friendly, many showing genuine curiosity towards Japanese visitors. If you visit Myanmar, exploring Mandalay after Yangon is highly recommended.
For my departure, I flew directly from Mandalay to Bangkok’s Don Mueang Airport with Thai AirAsia. As a major low-cost carrier from a neighboring developed country, Thai AirAsia had reacted swiftly to Myanmar’s market opening. It was already operating four daily flights combined to Yangon and Mandalay and, impressively, even offered a free shuttle bus service between Mandalay city and the airport for its passengers – a sign of serious commitment.
Although my flight departed in the early afternoon (around 1 PM), the free shuttle left the city at 9 AM sharp. Upon arriving at the airport, not only were there no airline staff present, but the security checkpoint wasn’t even open yet. Passengers were essentially left stranded in the departure lobby. The airport information desk was also unmanned. Surrounded by what looked like jungle, with absolutely no shops or amenities nearby, passengers had no choice but to wait for hours on benches in the desolate lobby, which felt almost like it was still under construction. However, in such a “frontier” airport setting, a strange camaraderie developed among the strangers waiting together. Without exchanging many words, we felt like castaways sharing fate on a small boat – a rare travel experience in itself. While the free bus likely aimed to save passengers money and prevent late check-ins or missed flights, further refinements are needed to enhance customer satisfaction.
This return trip to Myanmar revealed many tourism resources still in the early stages of development. The contrast between areas undergoing rapid transformation and those seemingly untouched by change was striking. Much work remains before Myanmar becomes an easily accessible destination for casual tourists from countries like Japan. Nevertheless, the potential of this emerging aviation and travel market seems immense. One reason for my optimism is the dramatic improvement in the quality of domestic flights, which were once so unreliable. Most impressive were the friendly, efficient service and positive attitude of the ground staff and flight attendants. Perhaps the welcoming smiles of a people hopeful for the future are one of this country’s greatest tourism assets. Or am I perhaps being a little too partial to Myanmar and its people?
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